If you are unlucky enough to have rust take over your Ozpig sometimes the best thing to do is re-paint. The 5 part how-to guide will walk you through each step from disassembly, to prep, painting and burn-in. I have seen people repaint it while it is still assembled and while it will work it certainly doesn't produce a result that looks so good and makes the job a LOT harder. Disassembly of an Ozpig is generally a pretty straight forward procedure but there are factors that may work against you to make it more difficult. The number 1 issue people may have is separating rusty parts, the door hinge in particular and chimney pieces can bind together a bit on a neglected pig. Also if you tend to use a lot of unseasoned, green, sappy wood a lot then the residue may "glue" your chimney sections together making it very difficult to get them apart particularly if yours just sits assembled in your backyard or patio permanently without a cover or roof to protect it.
- Start with the chimney: Whether you have the basic straight sections or the upgrade offset kit they all come apart in the same fashion, they just slide into each other and should come apart with a simple pull or twist. Often 2 sections might stick a bit from rust and can usually be freed up by gently tapping one end on the grass or a timber board (be careful not to bash it too hard because you don't want to knock the chimney out of shape) while holding the other end, then turn 180 degrees and tapping the opposite side. If it is really rusted together and playing hardball a spray of WD40 into the joint then set aside to let it do it's thing for a few hours or overnight will do the trick, another good idea is a few gentle taps at the joint with a rubber mallet to loosen up the rust. If all of this fails then chances are that there might be some sap residue holding your chimney together from the inside, in this case heat is the best solution. Start up a decent fire inside your pig then get yourself a pair of leather welding or gardening gloves or some other heavy duty heat proof fabric and try pulling the chimney apart while it is hot, the heat from the fire should melt the sap allowing the chimney to be pulled apart, also a gentle blast all over the joint with a plumbers propane torch is very effective.
- Next move on to the door. Depending on which model of Ozpig you own, you will have 1 of 2 different types of hinge pin. Older models will have a straight pin that slides in between the hinge and the lugs on the Ozpig body. To remove simply use a hammer and centre punch or thin screwdriver and tap the pin until it slides the whole way out, if it's rusty you may need to let some WD40 soak on it for a few hours. Newer Ozpigs will have a straight hinge pin with a circlip holding it on. At the bottom of the pin there will be a little clip. By inserting a very small flat blade screwdriver into one of the slots in the clip you can pry it off. Then the pin will slide out. If your pin is rusty or clogged up with grease etc, I suggest a bit of WD40 before doing it. Also with the door using a spanner or socket we will remove the latch and also if you have a vented door remove the hinge as well.
- BBQ Plates: Remove and set to the side we will show you later the best way to rejuvenate them. (NEVER paint your BBQ plates as you want them to remain food grade quality).
- Legs: The standard legs and extensions legs all unscrew anticlockwise. Again these can sometimes be difficult to remove but be careful not to be too aggressive with them so as not to break off the thread. If you find it difficult to get them moving your old friend WD40 or a bit of heat will help to free it up.
- Lastly using a drill with a small drill bit drill out the rivets holding the aluminum safety warning plate on. (you can leave this on if you like but just makes it a bit harder when sanding).
Now your Ozpig should be fully stripped down to begin the most important step, Preparation for painting.